Imagine a ribbon of asphalt unfurling across a landscape painted with hues of red rock, emerald valleys, and sapphire skies. This is Utah’s Route Twelve National Scenic Byway, a road that’s not just a path from one place to another, but an adventure in itself. National Scenic Byways are designated roads recognized for their outstanding scenic, historic, cultural, natural, recreational, and archaeological qualities. Route Twelve in Utah embodies all of these characteristics, offering an unparalleled driving experience that immerses you in the raw beauty of the American Southwest.
This travelogue chronicles a journey along this captivating byway, detailing its breathtaking landscapes, historical points of interest, and unforgettable experiences. It’s an invitation to discover why Utah’s Route Twelve is a must-do road trip for any adventurous traveler seeking a connection with nature and a glimpse into the past. Prepare to be inspired to pack your bags and embark on this remarkable odyssey.
Planning the Adventure
The allure of Utah Route Twelve is undeniable, but a successful trip requires a bit of planning. The ideal time to experience the byway is during the spring or fall. The weather is generally mild, the crowds are thinner than in the peak summer months, and the landscapes are vibrant with either blooming wildflowers or the fiery colors of autumn foliage. Summer can be hot, especially in the lower elevations, and winter can bring snow and ice, potentially impacting road conditions.
While the entire route can be driven in a single day, a more leisurely pace allows for deeper exploration. Three to four days is recommended to fully appreciate the diverse attractions along the way.
The type of vehicle you choose can significantly impact your experience. A standard car will suffice for most of the paved route, but a higher-clearance vehicle, such as an SUV or truck, is advisable if you plan on exploring any of the unpaved side roads, like the infamous Burr Trail.
Accommodation options range from camping under the star-studded skies to cozy hotels and vacation rentals in the charming towns along the route. Camping requires reservations in advance, especially during peak season. Hotels and rentals offer a comfortable respite after a day of exploring. Towns such as Torrey, Boulder, Escalante, and Tropic provide a variety of lodging choices.
Packing essentials include layers of clothing to accommodate fluctuating temperatures, sturdy hiking boots, sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses, and plenty of water. A camera is a must to capture the stunning scenery. A first-aid kit and a roadside emergency kit are also recommended.
Safety is paramount when traveling through remote areas. Be aware of potential road hazards, such as wildlife crossings, rockfalls, and sudden changes in weather. Flash floods are a serious concern in canyon country, so be sure to check the weather forecast before embarking on any hikes in slot canyons. Carry a reliable map and a GPS device, as cell service can be spotty in certain areas.
Beginning the Scenic Drive: Torrey and Capitol Reef
The journey often begins in Torrey, a small town nestled at the eastern edge of Capitol Reef National Park. Torrey serves as a gateway to the park’s wonders, offering a blend of rustic charm and modern amenities.
Capitol Reef National Park is a hidden gem, a geological wonderland of towering cliffs, canyons, and domes. The park’s centerpiece is the Waterpocket Fold, a nearly one hundred-mile long warp in the earth’s crust. The Fruita Orchards, a historic orchard planted by Mormon pioneers, offer a unique glimpse into the region’s agricultural past. Visitors can stroll through the orchards, sample fresh fruit, and even pick their own during certain times of the year.
The Capitol Reef Scenic Drive is a must-do, a paved road that winds through the heart of the park, providing access to stunning viewpoints and trailheads. Hiking trails abound, ranging from easy strolls to strenuous climbs. The Hickman Bridge Trail is a popular choice, leading to a natural sandstone arch that spans one hundred thirty-three feet. For those seeking a challenge, the Navajo Knobs Trail offers panoramic views of the entire park.
The area also has intriguing historical spots. Don’t miss the Petroglyphs and Pioneer Register. The rock art left by ancient peoples, and the signatures carved into the cliff walls by early settlers, create a fascinating blend of cultures.
Driving through the Heart: A Journey of Landscapes
Leaving Capitol Reef, the real adventure begins as you immerse yourself into the heart of Utah Route Twelve. The driving experience itself is exhilarating, with winding roads that climb and descend through diverse landscapes.
Boulder Mountain, a high-elevation plateau blanketed with forests and meadows, offers a dramatic contrast to the red rock canyons below. The drive across Boulder Mountain is especially beautiful in the fall, when the aspen trees blaze with golden color. Numerous scenic overlooks provide breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys and mountains.
Numerous scenic overlooks beckon you to pause and soak in the majestic panoramas. Each viewpoint offers a unique perspective, capturing the grandeur of the landscape in its own way.
The Burr Trail, an optional detour, is a challenging but rewarding drive. This partially unpaved road descends steeply into the canyon country below, offering spectacular views of the Waterpocket Fold and the Henry Mountains. A high-clearance vehicle is highly recommended for the Burr Trail.
The Head of the Rocks Overlook is a favorite. As you stand there, the views are beyond belief. The way the canyons unfold before you is something to be remembered forever.
Escalante and the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
The town of Escalante, a small community steeped in history and surrounded by natural beauty, serves as a base for exploring the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.
Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, a vast and rugged wilderness, is a playground for outdoor enthusiasts. The monument is named for its series of colorful cliffs that resemble a giant staircase ascending from the Grand Canyon to Bryce Canyon.
Hiking trails abound, offering opportunities to explore slot canyons, waterfalls, and ancient ruins. Lower Calf Creek Falls is a popular hike, leading to a refreshing waterfall cascading into a clear pool. Spooky and Peek-a-Boo Gulch are two of the most famous slot canyons in the monument, narrow and winding passages carved by water over millions of years. These canyons require some scrambling and canyoneering skills, but the experience is well worth the effort.
Remember to practice Leave No Trace principles when hiking in the monument, packing out everything you pack in and staying on designated trails.
Devil’s Garden, another unique landscape within the monument, is a collection of otherworldly hoodoos and sandstone formations. The Anasazi State Park Museum offers a glimpse into the lives of the ancient Puebloan people who once inhabited this region.
Heading Toward Bryce Canyon
As Route Twelve continues westward, the landscape gradually transitions towards the distinctive pink cliffs of Bryce Canyon National Park.
Kodachrome Basin State Park, located near Cannonville, is a hidden gem. This park is known for its colorful rock formations, including sixty-seven monolithic spires called sedimentary pipes. The park offers several easy to moderate hiking trails, providing opportunities to explore the unique geological features.
The towns of Tropic and Bryce Canyon City serve as gateways to Bryce Canyon National Park.
Reflections and Insider Tips
Utah’s Route Twelve is more than just a road; it’s a journey through time and terrain. The route’s highlights include the dramatic landscapes of Capitol Reef National Park, the winding roads of Boulder Mountain, the slot canyons of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, and the colorful rock formations of Kodachrome Basin State Park.
For future travelers, consider these tips:
- Timing is key: Spring and fall offer the best weather and fewer crowds.
- Must-do activities: Hiking in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, driving the Capitol Reef Scenic Drive, and visiting Kodachrome Basin State Park.
- Places to eat: Try local restaurants in Torrey, Escalante, and Boulder for authentic Southwestern cuisine.
- Things to know: Fill up your gas tank whenever possible, as gas stations can be few and far between. Check the weather forecast before embarking on any hikes. Be prepared for changing weather conditions.
A Journey to Remember
Utah’s Route Twelve National Scenic Byway is an unforgettable adventure, a journey that will leave you in awe of the power and beauty of nature. It’s a road trip that will stay with you long after you’ve returned home. This scenic route is a testament to the enduring allure of the American West. Pack your bags, hit the road, and prepare to be amazed by the unforgettable experiences that await you on Utah’s Route Twelve. The landscapes, the history, and the sheer sense of adventure will create memories that last a lifetime. Start planning your trip and witness the magic of this extraordinary route.
